Under Observation
April 26, 2005
The ITS# applications weren’t all that was under observation during the preselections. One of our guests even went as far to transcribe what he saw… We thought instead of reporting on ourselves, why not let someone else? Another point of view, a different perspective, refreshing. So let me clear the stage and leave you in the capable hands of Jérôme Hanover who will set the scene and tell you what happened, followed by quotes from some of our jury members and guests.
It’s for the future
Citizens of Milan will surely tell you: our city is the international capital of fashion. Citizens of Paris will tell you the same, changing just the name of the city: the international capital of fashion is Paris. Americans will surely try to propose New York, but thank God, nobody will believe them.
Therefore, the only really international fashion capital is Trieste. Today an Italian harbour facing the Adriatic sea, yesterday under the control of the United Nations, in the past Austro-Hungarian, Trieste has in itself her multicultural dimension. Therefore, where apart from here (or there, depending on where you are) could a really International festival be held? So here’s ITS#, that made us poor little Paris-Milan oriented ones discover that also in Vladivostok fashion has a voice, that India is a breeding-ground for textile creations and that Victor and Rolf are not the only ones coming out from the school of Harnem in Holland.
From 14 to 17 July 2005 the fourth edition of International Talent Support (ITS#FOUR) won’t fail the rule established in the last three editions. I can prove it with the list of selected finalists, officialized on April 15: two Australians, two Belgians, one Belgian-Peruvian, two Israelis, one Polish, three Japanese, a Spaniard, a Russian, a Chinese, an Indian, a German, an American, two Dutch and, surprisingly enough, five Danish, which is actually a true record if one considers the dimensions of Denmark and its population number. Prejudice? Obviously not: I was an observer and I can testimony:
Elisa Palomino (John Galliano): Questo? Che facciamo?
Barbara Franchin (organizer of ITS#): I’ll fight for him.
Erika Kurihara (i-D fashion editor): Yes. Yes you’re right.
Wilbert Das (Diesel creative director): Yes absolutely
Maria-Luisa (great Parisian guru of "must haves" and "will bes":Tout à fait, I love the concept.
Deanna Ferretti(creative entrepreneur and dream realizer for the designers): Ah si, it was very interesting.
Valentina Maggi (head hunter for Floriane de St Pierre): Yes, you’re right.
No animated discussions, no weak approvals: it’s a full "Yes" for everyone. Therefore this summer you will see knitwear outfits with the waist as the symmetrical line (yes, I can assure you), hooded jacket cloaks, toy figures hanging from skirts, and a lot more. Especially for photography, since its importance and appreciation are growing, the event enlarged its concept, and this year it opens a new field: photography (fashion’s natural complementary domain). Selected by Jan Welters (photographer) and Anne Urbauer (MINIInternational editor in chief), the 17 finalists will present their art, fashion and reportage photos during the event.
So, to quote Luciano Berio, quoting Samuel Beckett (definitely, what an internationalism), “We must collect our thoughts for the unexpected is always upon us: in our rooms, in the street, at the door, on a stage. Thank you Ms Franchin”.
Camilla Morton - Freelance
Contributing editor Harper’s and Queen UK, Fashion Features Director Tank
The main ‘Trend’ if such a thing exists at ITS#, is that it is fearless and fresh thinking fashion. From schools you have heard of, to those you wish you had, it is an international meeting of minds, where the common language is fashion, through the eyes of the young it can retain its allure, mystique and with initiatives like this, lead to the future.
I am so glad to have been invited as under Barbara’s energy, set in the magical city of Trieste. This is why fashion is exciting and inspiring! Thank you!
Maria Luisa Poumaillou - Maria Luisa Boutique
These collections look more romantic and poetical than before: also more "brainy". There are lots of butterflies, flowers, but also skulls and scars: it is a proper mix of suffering and joy. These works are less innocent than last year. I can see a deep research in fabrics, prints, shapes, etc. to be more different and individual than today "status fashion".
Wilbert Das - Creative Director Diesel
Flowers, butterflies and skulls. Life, transformation and death: these things generally moved fashion students this year, a very various selection which almost covers the whole range of trends and taste. It’s the result of another fantastic ITS# selection session. More fun, less nostalgia.
Deanna Ferretti - Entrepreneur, CEO Maglificio Miss Deanna
There is a deep research to get out from the traditional fashion system: the union between holy and profane, in order to generate new ways of doing fashion.
Jan Welters - photographer
"It was a big challenge and really not easy to choose 17 finalist projects out of 48 participants. Sometimes it broke my heart to leave someone out and I think I will be waking up tonight knowing I made a big mistake and did something wrong… however, I think we have made a great selection, that gives us an overall view of the whole spectrum of the Photography work of the Art Schools today. It was a pleasure to see what makes the clock of these young kids tick, what they are inspired by and how different the different schools from different countries are! But now we have to choose the winner…
To be continued!"
