THE ITS#FOUR JURY - Here are the names and the stories of those who will judge the finalists
July 12, 2005
|Judging is a tough job. Before judging something or someone, one should ask himself a series of questions:
- Am I experienced enough in what/who I am judging?
- Am I objective enough to judge?
- Am I responsible enough to judge?
If your answer is "yes" to all of the three (and you're not cheating...), well, you must be some expert in your field! If your field is fashion or photography, your name is probably in the list below. Ladies and Gentlemen, let me introduce you to the ITS#FOUR Juries. Check out their biographies!
Antonio Berardi - Born in the small town of Grantham, of Sicilian parents who had emigrated to the UK in the Fifties. Moving to London, to study at St. Martin's College he also worked as John Galliano's assistant, breaking off in 1993 to concentrate on completing his studies.
He graduated in 1994 with a final collection so interesting it attracted immediate attention from buyers as notable as 'Liberty' and 'A La Mode' in London. By 1995, with the debut of his first official show, his success was assured.
There is a remarkable sophistication in Berardi's character, it comes across in his work as a balance between the unique culture of his ancestral Sicily and his fascination with Old England's aristocratic pragmatism and austerity.
Berardi alternates commissions from top-drawer fashion firms with developing his own-name line, which for the past two years he has chosen to show in Milan. His thoughtful, sophisticated and profoundly respectful attitude towards the female body translates into sexy, baroque shapes that convey with ever greater precision Berardi's awareness of what the right kind of rhythm and poise can communicate.
Boudicca - Brian Kirkby was born in Bury near Manchester where he grew up before leaving to attend Middlesex University in London to study fashion. After gaining a first class honours degree he attended the Royal College of Art and received a Masters in Fashion womenswear winning graduate and collection of the year '94.
Zowie Broach spent her youth being 'new kid' at various schools as she travelled around coastal England. Zowie then attended Middlesex University but graduated just as Brian arrived. They both had shared the inspirational teaching and guidance of Pepita de Foote.
They met years later on a winter wind swept beach in Northern Italy whilst working in the same area where Fellini filmed La Strada. Fed up with the banal offering of the fashion industry, they felt that clothes should reflect people's opinions and association to a certain philosophy and tribe.
Since then they are Boudicca, one of the leading labels of the English fashion avant-garde.
Wilbert Das - After graduating in 1988 at the Academy of Fine Arts in Arnhem, Holland (which at the time was one of the three most famous institutes worldwide), where he studied fashion for 5 years, Wilbert Das joined Diesel where he started out as male designer assistant (working also on the Kids, Accessories and Leather lines).
In 1993 he became not only Head of Design (leading a style office of some 30 people), but also Creative Director of the company, responsible for all the creative concepts, from Advertising (he is one of the founding members of the internal Diesel Creative Team) to Interior Design (he coordinated the restructuring of the Diesel Pelican Hotel in Miami and the creation of all the main Diesel flagship stores worldwide), from Product (design and production) to fashion shows and catalogues.
Elisabeth Dieupart - She graduated in French Modern Literature from La Sorbonne in Paris in 1999 with a specialisation in Communication. After some internships in Europe and in the USA in PR agencies, she joined an independent PR agency in Paris in 2000. She took care of Public Relationships for France for the following brands: Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, Andre Walker. Since 2001 she works at Floriane de St. Pierre and Associes as researcher in Creative Department.
Demna Gvasalia - Born in Sokhumi, Georgia, Demna, after a BA with honours at the Tbilisi State University in Economic Relation, has just finished his third year at the Hogeschool Antwerpen in Belgium. Last year, with his menswear collection "Fully dressed without a smile" he won ITS#THREE Collection of the Year, and, as every winner of this prize at ITS, he is back this year as a member of the jury and to present his new collection "No Title: Part One"
Deanna Ferretti - Deanna Ferretti Veroni started her career in Reggio Emilia, Italy more than 30 years ago. She has since then successfully collaborated with some of the most important designers of this past century. She met Kenzo when she was barely 25 years old and with him she worked successfully for over 20 years. During the 70's she collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent (Tricot e Variation), Rena Kraft, Chiwitt, Frapp, Luis London, Blaky Dress, Giorgio Correggiari, Popy Moreni and Michelle Bruyere.
In the 80's she started to have her first licences with Adrienne Vittadini, Armani and Joseph. Their collections were drawn by John Galliano and John Richmond.
In the 90's, she worked for Martin Margiela, Gai Mattiolo, Valentino, Neil Barret and for many others brands. She has a wide experience in textiles and knitwear but she cannot be called neither a fashion designer nor simply a business woman. Actually, she is an atypical figure born to realise almost every designer's dream. Now, every three or four years her company supports a new young talent, because Miss Deanna is a symbol of originality and quality.
Barbara Franchin - She was born in Trieste, Italy, and living in a border zone has led to her openness and curiosity in terms of interfusion in all its forms.
She took her first steps in the fashion world establishing an atelier with a friend aimed to the creation of extravagant womenswear clothing.
Her propensity for exchange, comparison, curiosity and the search for the creative spark lead her to create and organise in 1993 Mittelmoda, a projects created to provide space for the elaboration and search for talent within the fashion world.
Barbara left it after the 2000 edition to launch a new and autonomous entrepreneurial project in Trieste; an agency, EVE, of which she is Director & Project Supervisor.
As director of EVE she has been organising ITS - International Talent Support since the very beginning.
Valentina Maggi - She was born in Milan and graduated in Architecture at the Politecnico di Milano in 1988, with a specialisation in Restoration of Monuments. After 1 year working as an Architect in a Design Studio in Milan, she left Italy and moved to Paris in 1999. In the same year she joined Floriane de St. Pierre & Associes, Executive Search Company specialising in Fashion and Luxury goods. After 6 months working as the Assistant of the Consultant in charge of all Creative searches, under Floriane de St. Pierre's supervision, she took the responsability of all creative recruitements for the company. Since 2003, Valentina maggi has become Associate in Floriane de St.Pierre & Associes.
Antonio Marras - Born in Alghero, Sardinia, he took his first steps into fashion in 1987. There was no official schooling behind him but an irrepressible need to express himself and a bit of good luck. Having grown up amongst the fabrics and remnants of his father's shop, Antonio develops a passion and a sensibility towards textiles which persuade an entrepreneur from Rome to entrust him with the creation of a ready-to-wear collection.
With "Sanstitre" in 1988 Antonio Marras started to transpose his concept of dressmaking to ready-to-wear: a collection made up only of white shirts, ruffled, pleated, deformed, extended and transfigured. He made his proper début in haute couture in July 1996. It is the first of a series of trips through tradition, an individual and proud re-examination of collective memories.
In March 1999 Antonio Marras presented his first ready-to-wear collection in Milan to bear his name. In June 2002, during Pitti Uomo in Florence, his first men's collection was presented. Starting from January 2003, menswear collections are regularly presented in Milan during the Fashion Week.
In September 2003 the French group LVMH appointed Antonio Marras as the artistic director of Kenzo's womenswear: an encounter prompting a combination of intellectual nomadism and sense of one's origins that Marras shares with the Japanese designer.
Even though he is often travelling due to his job, he insists on living in Sardinia aware of the fact that his strength comes from his island. He lives in a big house-workroom in Alghero, on a hill which overlooks the sea with his extended family which takes active part in his creative work.
Elisa Palomino - Elisa Palomino's interest in fashion design started in 1987 when she enrolled at the S. Carlos Faculty of Fine Art in Valencia. After continuing her studies at Istituto Marangoni and Central Saint Martins (MA Fashion &Textiles), she started her professional career in New York in 1992; soon she moved back to London to work for Liberty and Timney Fowler. In 1995, she became full time textile designer and Scarf Collection Director at Moschino, in Milan.
In 2000 Elisa moved to Paris and joined John Galliano as the head of the studio. In the same year, she started a collaboration with Christian Dior.
Franco Penè ? Chairman of Gibò since 1994, year when the company was founded.
Maria Luisa Poumaillou - Maria Luisa's adventure began in 1988 with the opening of her first boutique in Paris in a very unconventional street - 2, Rue Cambon as unconventional were at that time the fashion designers' collections that she had chosen to launch: John Galliano, Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela to name just a few! These almost unknown fashion designers were to become fashion icons quite immediately. In the years to follow Maria Luisa's fame as a visionary woman spotting the most-famous-to-become designers has never stopped growing. At 40, rue du Mont Thabor the widest, smartest and biggest space was open in 2002. It will welcome the collection of the winner of the Maria Luisa Award in the form of a dedicated shop-window. Maria Luisa now owns and directs 4 boutiques where some of the most innovative and outstanding fashion designers such as Bernhard Willhelm, Lutz, Sharon Wauchob etc - are sold.
Cecilia Dean - Raised in California, she moved to New York where she began modeling at the end of high school when she met Stephen Gan as photographer and James Kaliardos as make-up artist. Dean modeled in Paris, Milan, London, and Tokyo and has worked with photographers Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, David Sims, Steven Klein, Irving Penn, and Peter Lindbergh. In 1991, Dean received her Bachelor of Arts degree in English and French literature from Barnard College, Columbia University, NYC. In April 1991, Visionaire Publishing was launched with collaborators Stephen Gan and James Kaliardos. In September 1999, V Magazine was launched along with the Visionaire Gallery.?In September 2003, VMAN magazine was launched. In 2004 Dream Project, a design firm, was established to art direct advertising campaigns. Cecilia Dean is also a visiting professor at Parsons School of Design where she teaches a senior seminar on publication design.
Renzo di Renzo - He was born in Conegliano (Treviso, Italy).
In 1992 he took a master in Marketing and Communication after having been the assistant chair of Italian literature at Venice University.
After the Master Di Renzo began his activity in communication with Benetton Sportsystem Group, later to become its head, taking care of the advertising and sponsoring of various sport brand (Nordica, Kastle, Prince, Rollerblade, Killer Loop).
From 2001 he is Creative Director of Fabrica, the Benetton Group research centre on communication, following projects that range from graphic to photography, from design to video, from music to interactive.
Renzo di Renzo is Marketing & Communication Consultant for numerous companies and regularly holds lectures and courses in schools and cultural institutions, among which the cui D&AD - British Design and Art Direction, Pesaro University, the Università Cattolica of Milan, the Venice University. He is member of the boards of directors of the European headquarter of Miami ad School.
Di Renzo has followed the creation of: 1000 Extra/Ordinary objects (1999, Taschen - l2002), a collection of the craziest objects of the 20th century collected during Colors' ten years activity; Prayer (1999, Edizioni San Paolo), a collection of modern prayers translated into 14 languages; Fabrica Files (2002-2004, Electa), the first of a series of volumes dedicated to contemporary creativity; 2398 gr. (2003, Electa), a book about food; Mail me (2004) a book of visual postcards; 1000 Signs, (2004, Taschen) an encyclopedia of road signs from all over the world; Fabrica 10, from Chaos to order and back (2004, Electa), a visual trip about the first ten years of activity of Fabrica. He is also curator of a series of photo book published by Skira. In 2000 he published a book of short tales Brevi incontri, lunghi addii (2000, Theoria).
Veronique Kolasa - She is the founder and Creative Director of le Book. Véronique Kolasa created LeBook in 1982 in Paris as a reference for Parisian photography and fashion-related professionals. Being close to creative people in all fields, she noticed that everyone was always asking each other «-do you know someone who could do this or that?-». Véronique always knew, and she felt this knowledge should be compiled. Her love of order and classification translated into an extensive collection of lists and visuals carefully collected from the most influential people in the fields of photography, fashion, music and design. Le Book was born. Aiming to make Le Book the most beautiful worktool ever, Véronique Kolasa has developed a tradition of collaboration with the most influential designers of our time. Yves Saint-Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix, as well as the houses of Hermès and Emilio Pucci have already «dressed» several editions of Le Book. Véronique Kolasa divides her time between London, Paris and New York, but calls Paris "home." When she isn't pouring herself into her work, she enjoys her Arabian horses and the beauty and calm of the Bedouin desert.
Lisa Naftolin - Lisa Naftolin is Creative Director of the New York-based photo agency, Art + Commerce. Her practice has been divided between cultural and editorial projects for the past eighteen years. She has collaborated widely with artists and curators to produce material for museum exhibitions of contemporary art - notably with Ann Hamilton on the book Tropos for the DIA Center for the Arts. Her editorial work includes many years as an Art Director at publications including The New York Times Magazine and Architecture. She has been a Visiting Artist at Cooper Union teaching Advanced Design, a visiting critic in Design at Yale, and is a past board member of the American Institute of Graphic Arts, New York.
Anne Urbauer - Anne Urbauer was born near Munich, Bavaria, where she studied journalism, politics and history. She has worked as Lifestyle Editor for German 80s Zeitgeist Zentralorgan "Tempo", as head of the modern living department at "Stern" Magazine and "Die Woche", a weekly newspaper as well as a contributing editor for "Wallpaper" magazine (issues 1 to 50). Freelancing since 1999, she has founded "H.O.M.E.", a magazine for design and architecture based in Berlin, "Spruce", a fashion oriented line extension for "Wallpaper*" magazine, "STIL", the style section of the Sunday edition of Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ) in Zurich, Switzerland and MINIInternational, the culture friendly corporate magazine sponsored by MINI. In 2004, she edited "Perspectives", a book on the visions of 24 designers and architects, published by Gerd Bulthaup. Currently she is contributing editor to NZZ am Sonntag, executive editor of Amica Germany and editorial director of MINIInternational. She now lives in Munich.
Jan Welters - Born in Holland, he attended art school in Breda where he discovered that his main passion was photography. He began to travel extensively, assisting professional photographers and developing his own unique style. In 1995 he chose Paris as his new home and has worked for numerous magazines and advertising clients since. Jan dedicates a lot of time to personal projects. He had his first solo exhibition in Rome in 2001 and has been featured in numerous group shows across Europe and New York.
So you're a finalist. And you're there, ready to meet the Jury and show them your work. Explain them what inspired you, how you did it. You feel like it's a turning point, as if they've given you a precious occasion to show to the real professionals that you are good. Show them that you deserve a space to express yourself. These are the people who will judge you. Control your heartbeat, check your smile.....and LET'S GO!!!