Nira and Heather talk about Accessories
July 25, 2005
| ...because when we talk about fashion we always think about jackets, trousers and complete outfits that hit the fashion-city catwalks or (even better) the fashion shows of our beloved schools. BUT have you ever noticed the thing embracing the supa-sexy hips of the models...or the object hanging from their tiny (and also sexy) arm? Yes, you got it, we are talking about accessories..the part that (could) gives that something to the outfit....and to be able to add that something, behind an accessory there are days of designing studies..hours to choose the right material and of course a designer who does these things! With an eye on the market we have to consider that the importance and the demand of this profession is stronger everyday...just to name one famous case-history, consider that 85% of the Gucci's invoiced profits is made by accessories. And if the Market asks for accessory-designers, someone has to help it.....and that's what ITS is ready to do! You know..our main aim is to create a platform where young and talented creatives can meet up, share their knowledge and mostly show to the world what they got...so next year ITS will have also an accessories competition...the first international accessories competition worldwide! Wanna know more? Wanna have the details?What/when/how? Not yet man...you have to wait a little longer ;-) Ok..now...where do you think the designers of the ultra-fashion bags you can find on 5th Avenue have learned their craft? At University of course..if you didn't know there are various universities which offer degree programs in Accessories Design and most fashion design programs have accessories design as a mandatory course...and who better than a teacher could take us by the hand and explain us a bit more about this interesting field? Ladies and Gentleman welcome to Nira Ben-David from Shenkar School of Engineering and Design and Heather Holford from Royal College of Art |
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Name and School Heather: Heather Holford (Tutor/Project Manager) School of Fashion & Textiles Royal College of Art Kensington Gore London SW7 2EU Nira: My name is Nira Ben Daviv Peled, From Senkar College of Engineering and Design in Israel. Which is the name of the accessories course and how is it organized? H: We have three disciplines within Fashion Womenswear and Menswear: Accessories, Footwear and Millinery. It is a two-year postgraduate course. N: 1st semester, 84 hours, 6 hours per each class- Design of shoes. 2nd semester, 84 hours, 6 hours per class- Design of bags. For both shoes and bags:Product introduction to the market, basic patterns (at least four), the study of materials, and understanding of the Israeli accessories market demand, assembling a collection, and the final project of a student is picking one of his/her collection, through production as a finished product. When did the need of accessory courses come up? H: We began Accessories and Footwear nine years ago and have always had Millinery. N: I started teaching the design of shoes in 1987, at Senkar College, however the design of bags about 1999. How do accessory courses fit in the global fashion schools landscape? H: There are very few colleges doing Accessories courses - this is a strength for the RCA, particularly as we are the only wholly post-graduate college of art and design. N: Students from the clothing design school are eager to learn more than just clothing design. These two courses that I have been teaching have become the most desirable courses in the school. Accessories are a significant invoice in the fashion houses profit. Are Accessory designers as much respected as fashion designer in the job market or it is still a ongoing process? H: I think Accessories designers, and particularly Footwear designers , are gaining a higher profile all the time due to the increasing demand in recent years for their work. The market has increased but there is not a huge number of designers in the market place. N: I think when the department of accessories are profitable, the fashion houses will look immediately for designers of such accessories, and they are respected as much as the 'fashion designers' - money talks !!! While fashion design seems to be exclusively matter of design, fashion accessories looks more border-line, getting inspiration from different disciplines, jewellery, sculpture, etc. Furthermore, some accessory designers seems to specialize in specific accessories, for example Philip Tracey or Stephen Jones are milliners, Fendi maximised its income with the "Baguette". How would you describe this discipline-blending and specialization in specific items? H: All successful designers/design houses research in depth many different subjects, disciplines, etc. to inspire and inform their work. Accessories is no different in this respect. There is room for all methods of operating, be it as an individual designer whose work is coveted for itself, or a large and comprehensive house designing Accessories to complement the main collection. N: For me the design of accessories is more about art. One has to have the understanding of 3D. In comparison with fashion design, the technique part of the design of accessories, is much more difficult. For example: For making a pattern for clothing, one has one meniquin, which always stays the same. For shoes the shape of the last- form is changing every season, like from a square point to a round or to a pointed form. |
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How do you conceptualise the role of the specific accessory in somebody's look? It has something to do with underlining somebody's personality or it is about the aesthetical coherence of the outfit? H: Both! (There is also a practical consideration). N: I can tell a lot about the prsonality of a person according to the shoes, bags, accessories etc., that he wears. A person with an extravagant personality, is expressed more in his accessories or shoes than in his clothes !!! Do you think accessories will more and more tailor a space in the fashion market with specialised designers? Do you think in the near future we will see important labels change direction and focus completely on fashion accessories, abandoning design and production of clothing? H: Accessories are here to stay as fashion items, but I doubt if any successful labels would drop their garment ranges in order to concentrate on Accessories. However, there will always be houses who specialize solely in Accessories. N: I do not think companies or fashion houses, will change direction into accessories, but I am confident (from my personal experience), that accessories departments will grow, and new companies will open new lines only for accessories. How difficult is for an accessory designer graduated to get a job? H: Hard to say - we have a very high success rate of placing graduates, there is a market for Accessories designers, but it's also a matter of finding the right job for the individual. N: To find a job as an accessory designer, one has to consider and know the market in the country and region for that person. Do you think a specific fashion accessory competition can be a valid mean for young designers to make a name for themselves in the market? H: Absolutely - any help they can get! N: The competition for fashion accessories are important, because as much noise and PR it will get, big houses of accessories will be interested in supporting and looking for the next new star in the business. What kind of professional do you think would have the right knowledge and competence to be a juror in an accessories competition? H: Someone experienced and high-profile like Manolo Blahnik, Bill Amberg, or a designer from an international house like Louis Vuitton. N: In my opinion the juror for such a competition should come from the accessories design, or shoe design business and has to have artistic inclinations. |
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