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ITS#FIVE Juries
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July 12, 2006
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It needs to be familiar with passion to evaluate passion; it needs to have wide open eyes to see the inspiration in the new generations through their portfolios, outfits, presentations, projects; it needs a great wish of being touched to take four full immersion days with the aim to discover the next protagonists for fashion, accessories and photo universes. Here are the brave ones who took the sweet risks of accepting to be part of the juries..
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FASHION JURY:
AGNES BARRET
- Collection International manager for Maison Martin Margiela -
Although graduating in political science and law studies in Paris, Agnes took a dramatic turn when she did a BA at the Institut Français de la Mode.
During her career she has worked at Louis Vuitton as collection director, Cerrutti and Chloé to name a few.
She is now the collection international manager for the Maison Martin Margiela.
WILBERT DAS
- Diesel Creative Director -
Diesel Creative Director Wilbert Das was born in Holland in 1963. He grew up on his family's dairy farm, where he worked a year before departing in 1983 to study fashion design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Arnhem, Holland. Upon completing his degree in 1988 Wilbert was interviewed for a job at Diesel and hired on-the-spot literally interviewed one Autumn morning and began work that very afternoon. He started as a designer on the Male, Accessories, Leather, and Kids lines. Wilbert soon rose to head the style office of Diesel, and in 1993 was given the official title of Creative Director, with responsibilities ranging from clothing & accessory design to advertising & communications, merchandising, retail & interior design (including showrooms & even hotels), planning of fashion shows & events, as well as working on new businesses. Literally all aspects of the
Diesel brand's style and image have fallen under Wilbert's responsibility.
Wilbert's legacy as creative director has featured a concentration on constant innovation, both in clothing and communications. The defining aspects of his personality are humility and a quiet, low-key approach to the industry. Wilbert stays largely out of the fashion spotlight, focusing instead on creating a harmonious creative culture within his team, a structure based on collaboration and nurturing rather than individualism and competition.
Participation in events such as ITS and other programs to support young, unproven creatives are a natural extension to this. Wilbert was a founding member of ITS and is now is in his 5th year on the jury.
DEANNA FERRETTI
- Entrepreneur -
Deanna Ferretti Veroni started her career in Reggio Emilia, Italy more than 30 years ago. She has since then successfully collaborated with some of the most important designers of this past century. She met Kenzo when she was barely 25 years old and with him she worked successfully for over 20 years. During the 70's she collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent (Tricot e Variation), Rena Kraft, Chiwitt, Frapp, Luis London, Blaky Dress, Giorgio Correggiari, Popy Moreni and Michelle Bruyere. In the 80's she started to have her first licences with Adrienne Vittadini, Armani and Joseph. Their collections were drawn by John Galliano and John Richmond. In the 90's, she worked for Martin Margiela, Gai Mattiolo, Valentino, Neil Barret and for many others brands. She has a wide experience in textiles and knitwear but she cannot be called neither a fashion designer nor simply a business woman. Actually, she is an atypical figure born for realise almost every designer's dream.
Now, every three or four years her company supports a new young talent, because Miss Deanna is a symbol of originality and quality.
BARBARA FRANCHIN
- Talent Scout -
She was born in Trieste, Italy, and living in a border zone has led to her openness and curiosity in terms of interfusion in all its forms. She took her first steps in the fashion world establishing an atelier with a friend aimed to the creation of extravagant womenswear clothing. Her propensity for exchange, comparison, curiosity and the search for the creative spark lead her to create and organise in 1993 Mittelmoda, a projects created to provide space for the elaboration and search for talent within the fashion world.
Barbara left it after the 2000 edition to launch a new and autonomous entrepreneurial project in Trieste; an agency, EVE, of which she is Director & Project Supervisor. As director of EVE she has been organising ITS - International Talent Support since the very beginning.
MARIA LUISA FRISA
- Curator & Journalist -
Especially interested in the phenomenon of overlapping in the arts, fashion and design, Maria Luisa Frisa studies the complexity of the contemporary imagination in her transdisciplinary projects. She curated (with Francesco Bonami, Stefano Tonchi) the exhibitions: Uniform: Order and Disorder, at the Stazione Leopolda of Florence and at the New York's PS1 (2001); (with Stefano Tonchi) Excess. Fashion and the Underground in the 80's at the Stazione Leopolda of Florence (2004); Italian eyes. Fashion photography from 1951 to today, at the Rotonda di via Besana in Milan (2005).
She is the fashion curator for the editorial and communications projects of the Fondazione Pitti Discovery of Florence. With Mario Lupano and Stefano Tonchi she co-authored Total Living (2002), and with Raf Simons and Francesco Bonami, The Fourth Sex. Adolescent Extremes (2003). With Francesco Bonami, she edited the catalogue of the Biennale di Venezia entitled Dreams and Conflicts. The Viewer's Dictatorship (Marsilio, 2003). She directs Mode (Marsilio Editore), a publishing project focusing on the ideas and figures in fashion.
Since 2003 she has been working on the nomad project Laboratorium, a name for a variable nucleus of people from different professions experimenting strategies in visual communications processes.
She chairs the Degree course in Fashion Design at the Art and Design Faculty of the "Università di Venezia" (IUAV).
CATHY HORYN
- Fashion critic New York Times -
Cathy Horyn has been the fashion critic of The New York Times since 1999. Her articles also appear regularly in The New York Times Magazine. Before the Times, she was a contributing editor to Vanity Fair magazine. Between 1990 and 1994, she was the fashion editor of The Washington Post. A native of Coshocton, Ohio, she holds degrees in literature from Columbia University in New York and in journalism from Northwestern University in Chicago.
KEI KAGAMI
- Fashion Designer -
Kei Kagami initially studied architecture and worked as studio assistant to the pre-eminent figurehead of Twentieth Century Japanese building design, Kenzo Tange. During this period Kagami realised his true vocation and promptly enrolled at Tokyo's Bunka College to study tailoring. Building a bridge between the two disciplines, the move into fashion was a sort of logical progression. In 1989 Arriving on the doorstep of John Galliano's studio in London his talent and determination were instantly recognised and Galliano put him to work without hesitation, and he remained there as Galliano's studio assistant for three seasons working very closely with his mentor.
In 1990 with the help of Sisheido, Kagami enrolled at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. In 2001, his first catwalk show was held off-schedule at The Bulgarian Embassy in London. He has shown in London for several seasons and now presents his catwalk show in Milan. Kagami's first shoe-exhibition was held at a gallery in Milan in 2003.
Transcending fashion, Kagami's intricate, structural designs have been displayed in museums and galleries across the world including the Museum of Modern Art (Belgrade), Au Musée du Textile et des Costumes de Wesserling (France), Design 21 exhibition ( New York), triennale (Milano ), Rooms (Tokyo) 'The Fashion of Architecture ' (London and New York), 'Body Extensions' (Switzerland).
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VALENTINA MAGGI
- Floriane de St. Pierre -
Valentina Maggi was born in 1972 in Milan and graduated in Architecture from the Politecnico di Milano in 1998, with a specialisation in Restoration of Monuments.
After 1 year working as an Architect in a Design Studio in Milan, she left Italy and moved to Paris in 1999.
In the same year she joined Floriane De Saint Pierre & Associes, Executive Search Company specialising in Fashion and Luxury Goods. After 6 months working as the Assistant of the Consultant in charge of all Creative searches, under Floriane de Saint Pierre's supervision, she took the responsibility of all creative recruitments for the company. Since 2003, Valentina Maggi has become Associate in Floriane De Saint Pierre & Associes.
ELISA PALOMINO
- John Galliano, Head of the Studio -
Born in Valencia, Spain, she leaves for London in 1989 to study at Central Saint Martins (MA Fashion and Textiles). She started her profesional carreer in New York in 1992, soon she moved back to London to work for Liberty and Timney Fowler. In 1995 she joined Moschino and designed for the "cheap & chic" line. In 2000 Elisa moved to Paris at John Galliano as the head of the studio.
In the same year, she started a collaboration with Christian Dior. She is also an external teacher at Central St Martins.
MARIA LUISA POUMAILLOU
- Founder and Buyer for Maria Luisa Boutiques -
Maria Luisa's adventure began in 1988 with the opening of her first boutique in Paris in a very unconventional street - 2, rue cambon - as unconventional were at that time the fashion designers' collections that she had chosen to launch: John Galliano, Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela to name just a few! These almost unknown fashion designers were to become fashion icons quite immediately.
In the years to follow Maria Luisa's fame as a visionary woman spotting the most-famous-to-become designers has never stopped growing.
Maria Luisa now owns and directs 4 boutiques where some of the most innovative and outstanding fashion designers from Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Rochas to Charles Anastase or Nicolas Andreas Taralis. At 38, rue du Mont Thabor, the 'mixte' shop, focused on younger and emerging talents It will welcome the collection of the winner of the Maria Luisa Award in the form of a dedicated shop-window.
RAF SIMONS
- Creative Director Jil Sander, Fashion Designer -
Born Neerpelt, Belgium in 1968, Raf Simons graduates in Industrial Design and Furniture Design in 1991 and starts working as a furniture designer for galleries and private interiors.
Before this, Raf Simons interned at the design studio of Walter Van Beirendonck, working on the resentation and the decoration of the Van Beirendonck showrooms and collections.
In a radical change of profession, hereby encouraged by Linda Loppa, head of the Fashion Department of the Antwerp Royal Academy, he becomes a self-trained menswear fashion designer in 1995 and launches his Raf Simons Label.
Designs the menswear outfits for Ruffo Research (Spring-Summer 1999 and Autumn-Winter 1999-2000).
In March 2000, Raf Simons shuts down his company to take a sabbatical. Since his label has been growing more and more successful, he feels restricted and confined by the business side of fashion. In order to re-energise his reason to work, he announces he will quit from fashion and take time to consider new directions. Only after being approached by and offered a new co-operation deal with Belgian manufacturer Gysemans Clothing Industry, he takes up fashion once more in 2001, now with a smaller crew of collaborators.
Appointed head professor of the Fashion Department of the university of Applied Arts, Vienna, Austria in October 2000. Until June 2005.
Wins first prize Swiss Textiles Award, Lucerne, Switzerland in November 2003.
Restructures his company in October 2004, with a distribution deal with Futurenet (Europe and USA) and Mitsui (Asia), followed by a license agreement with Future-present (joint-venture of Futurenet and Mitsui Italia).
Lauches Raf by Raf Simons in June 2005.
Named Creative Director of Jil Sander (menswear and womenswear) in July 2005.
MARCUS LERENG WILMONT
- ITS#FOUR Winner, Fashion Designer -
Marcus Lereng Wilmont was born in Copenhagen in 1975.
Exploration and celebration of creativity and life was an essential part of his childhood "for as long as I can remember" -he says- "I was always trying to create something or tell a story whether it was with pencils, crayons or papier mache". After having finished college, the only thing on his mind was trying to make it as an artist. He started teaching drawing on a small scale and entered his work for various newspapers and magazines while trying to draw his own graphic novel. In Copenhagen he started to work for a theatre, because he could not find the clothes he liked he started sewing his own costumes. In 1999 he entered the Danish Design School and his life took a new direction. He then moved to London where he did a BA in menswear-Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art of Design. In 2005 he completed an MA Postgraduate Degree in Menswear-Fashion Design at the Royal College of Art and Design.
Last year, with his menswear collection he won ITS#FOUR Collection of the Year, and, as every winner of this prize at ITS, he is back this year as a member of the jury.
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PHOTO JURY:
ITS#PHOTO JURY BIOGRAPHY
DENIS CURTI
- Photographic critic and Director of Contrasto, MI -
Denis Curti in the last fifteen years has been involved in many of the most important Italian institutions and projects regarding photography.
He has been for ten years, from 1992 to 2002, director of "Fondazione Italiana Per la Fotografia" in Turin and took care from 1995 to 2001 of the "Biennale Internazionale di Fotografia".
In 2000 he became a member of the international comittee of critics which organized the first edition of "BIG, International Biennale of young artists" in Turin.
He collaborated as photography critic for Milan newspaper Corriere della Sera and weekly magazine VIVIMILANO from 1990 to 2004.
In 2002 and 2003 he has been curator of photography auctions for Sotheby's, Milan.
From 2001 to 2003 he provided artistic counselling for "Contrasto" exhibitions and from 2003 he is director of the Milan "Contrasto" centre and member of "Forma-centro Internazionale di fotografia" boards of directors.
CECILIA DEAN
- Editor of Visionaire -
Cecilia Dean was raised in California. She moved to New York where she began modeling at the end of high school when she met Stephen Gan as photographer and James Kaliardos as make-up artist. Dean modeled in Paris, Milan, London, and Tokyo and has worked with photographers Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, David Sims, Steven Klein, Irving Penn, and Peter Lindbergh. In 1991, Dean received her Bachelor of Arts degree in English and French literature from Barnard College, Columbia University, NYC.
In April 1991, Visionaire Publishing was launched with collaborators Stephen Gan and James Kaliardos. In September 1999, V Magazine was launched along with the Visionaire Gallery. In September 2003, VMAN magazine was launched. In 2004 Dream Project, a design firm, was established to art direct advertising campaigns.
Dean is also a visiting professor at Parsons School of Design where she teaches a senior seminar on publication design.
PAUL HETHERINGTON
- SHOWstudio Creative Director -
Paul Hetherington's involvement in establishing SHOWstudio began in late 1999, and he has since become Creative Director of the project, overseeing all creative aspects of the site and its aims. His role at SHOWstudio evolved from a long history of working with Nick Knight and Peter Saville since the mid-1980s. After studying graphic design and advertising in Sheffield and Reading, Hetherington trained as a designer for Peter Saville from 1984-87. In 1988 Hetherington co-founded his design agency Big-Active, with partners Gerard Saint and Mark Watkins. Leaving Big-Active nine years later, Hetherington returned to collaborate on design and image projects with Nick Knight, and with Peter Saville at his Mayfair-based consultancy 'the apartment'. Major client accounts included Mandarina Duck, the Barbican Centre, Flos and Hugo, plus music packaging for Pulp, Suede, Gay Dad and New Order. Hetherington continues to collaborate on art and design projects with Peter Saville and others, most recently creating an editioned neon artwork for the opening of London art space HOTEL, and working on digital image effects of Nick Knight's 2004 Pirelli Calendar shoot.
DANIELLE NELSON MOURNING
- Winner ITS#PHOTO for MINI -
Danielle Nelson Mourning has recently completed her MA in photography from the Royal College of Art in London, England. With the recent Pyramid Award given by Deutsche Bank, she will continue the project entitled, Natural History. This photographic and video series is a journey through places in America embedded in her family history. Dealing with different modes of photography, including self-portraiture, she begins to connect with the notion of a past caught in the present. This summer she will further reach
into her roots by returning to the western coast of Ireland and begin retracing the steps of her mother's Irish Catholic roots.
ANNE URBAUER
- Chief Editor MINIInternational magazine -
Anne Urbauer was born near Munich, Bavaria, where she studied journalism, politics and history. She has worked as Lifestyle Editor for German 80s Zeitgeist Zentralorgan "Tempo", as head of the modern living department at "Stern" Magazine and "Die Woche", a weekly newspaper as well as a contributing editor for "Wallpaper" magazine (issues 1 to 50).
Freelancing since 1999, she has founded "H.O.M.E.", a magazine for design and architecture based in Berlin, "Spruce", a fashion oriented line extension for "Wallpaper" magazine, "STIL", the style section of the Sunday edition of Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ) in Zurich, Switzerland and MINIInternational, the culture friendly corporate magazine sponsored by MINI. In 2004, she edited "Perspectives", a book on the visions of 24 designers and architects, published by Gerd Bulthaup. Currently she is contributing editor to NZZ am Sonntag, executive editor of Amica Germany and editorial director of MINIInternational. She now lives in Munich.
Philipp Ebeling
- Photographer/Fabrica -
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