MEET ITS#SIX JURIES...
July 10, 2007
|Judging is quite a difficult mission and a big responsibility; objectivity and measure are needed. Sometimes it takes a lot of discussion to reach a common point, and the passion with which the favourite finalists are defended is a clear signal of how seriously the role is taken.
Here are the ITS#SIX Juries. Check out their biographies:
ITS#SIX FASHION JURY BIOGRAPHY
Style Office Director Maison Martin Margiela-
Born in Belgium in 1976, Isabelle Aout is a graduate of «Â La CambreÂ » (ENSAV) in Bruxelles. During her last year of studies she chose to carry out a training position at Maison Martin Margiela in Paris, where she has remained for the past eight years. Since December 2006, fulfilled the role of "Directice du bureau de style" for the design studio, its teams and collections.
Diesel Creative Director-
Diesel Creative Director Wilbert Das was born in Holland in 1963. He grew up on his family's dairy farm, where he worked a year before departing in 1983 to study fashion design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Arnhem, Holland. Upon completing his degree in 1988 Wilbert was interviewed for a job at Diesel and hired on-the-spot literally interviewed one Autumn morning and began work that very afternoon. He started as a designer on the Male, Accessories, Leather, and Kids lines. Wilbert soon rose to head the style office of Diesel, and in 1993 was given the official title of Creative Director, with responsibilities ranging from clothing & accessory design to advertising & communications, merchandising, retail & interior design (including showrooms & even hotels), planning of fashion shows & events, as well as working on new businesses. Literally all aspects of the Diesel brand's style and image have fallen under Wilbert's responsibility. Wilbert's legacy as creative director has featured a concentration on constant innovation, both in clothing and communications. The defining aspects of his personality are humility and a quiet, low-key approach to the industry. Wilbert stays largely out of the fashion spotlight, focusing instead on creating a harmonious creative culture within his team, a structure based on collaboration and nurturing rather than individualism and competition. Participation in events such as ITS and other programs to support young, unproven creatives are a natural extension to this. Wilbert was a founding member of ITS and is now is in his 5th year on the jury.
Journalist "Il Giornale"-
Daniela Fedi is the head of the fashion area of the Italian daily newspaper Il Giornale. She is a fashion, lifestyle, beauty and society journalist and is editor of the Lifestyle supplement. She started writing for La Repubblica in 1979. She started to collaborate with Mondadori (100Cose, Panorama, Linea Italiana), and she worked for 100 Cose until 1986. That same year, she became editor-in-chief for the monthly magazine Taxi. She decided to work free-lance collaborating intensively with Harper's Bazaar, Elle Italy, Elle Greece and Elle Japan. After working exclusively with Elle Italy for a long period, she started her collaboration with Class publishing for Class and Madame Class. After five years, she went back to Il Giornale. She also taught Fashion publishing at the European School of Design and, most recently, at the Costume and Fashion Academy of Rome, the University of Bologna, Rimini and Venice. She wrote two books about jewellery and a travel guide to Egypt. She is currently writing a book about the forms of media and fashion together with Lucia Serlenga for Adriano Salani Publishing.
She was born in Trieste, Italy, and living in a border zone has led to her openness and curiosity in terms of interfusion in all its forms. She took her first steps in the fashion world establishing an atelier with a friend aimed to the creation of extravagant womenswear clothing. Her propensity for exchange, comparison, curiosity and the search for the creative spark lead her to create and organise in 1993 Mittelmoda, a projects created to provide space for the elaboration and search for talent within the fashion world. Barbara left it after the 2000 edition to launch a new and autonomous entrepreneurial project in Trieste; an agency, EVE, of which she is Director & Project Supervisor. As director of EVE she has been organising ITS - International Talent Support since the very beginning.
MARIA LUISA FRISA
Curator & Journalist-
Especially interested in the phenomenon of overlapping in the arts, fashion and design, Maria Luisa Frisa studies the complexity of the contemporary imagination in her transdisciplinary projects. She curated (with Francesco Bonami, Stefano Tonchi) the exhibitions: Uniform: Order and Disorder, at the Stazione Leopolda of Florence and at the New York's PS1 (2001); (with Stefano Tonchi) Excess. Fashion and the Underground in the 80's at the Stazione Leopolda of Florence (2004); Italian eyes. Fashion photography from 1951 to today, at the Rotonda di via Besana in Milan (2005). She is the fashion curator for the editorial and communications projects of the Fondazione Pitti Discovery of Florence. With Mario Lupano and Stefano Tonchi she co-authored Total Living (2002), and with Raf Simons and Francesco Bonami, The Fourth Sex. Adolescent Extremes (2003). With Francesco Bonami, she edited the catalogue of the Biennale di Venezia entitled Dreams and Conflicts. The Viewer's Dictatorship (Marsilio, 2003). She directs Mode (Marsilio Editore), a publishing project focusing on the ideas and figures in fashion. Since 2003 she has been working on the nomad project Laboratorium, a name for a variable nucleus of people from different professions experimenting strategies in visual communications processes. She chairs the Degree course in Fashion Design at the Art and Design Faculty of the "Università di Venezia" (IUAV).
Born in Athens in 1972, Sophia Kokosalaki moved to London where she graduated in 1998 with an MA in women's wear at Central St Martins. She debuted her first women's collection during 1999 London Fashion Week and in 2004 entered the top ten British "Cool Brand Leaders". After the launch of her first collection, Sophia was a guest designer for two seasons for the Italian label Ruffo Research. The same year she created the costumes for the opening ceremony for the Olympic Games in Athens. Along her career, the designer also dedicated herself to crossover projects and collaborated with the London apparel chain Top Shop for which she created "Capsule Collections". As creative director, she contributed to the resurrection of the historic French maison de couture Vionnet, and also collaborated with the Japanese street wear giant, Descente. In January 2007, Sophia Kokosalaki entered the orbit of the group, "Only the Brave", directed by Renzo Rosso who, through his holding in Staff International, acquired a controlling stake in the brand During Paris Prét-à-Porter F/W 2007 Fashion Week, she debuted with her first collection produced and distributed by Staff International.
Editor in Chief ELLE Thailand-
Kullawit Laosuksri is one of the foremost names in the Thai fashion. Over the past decade, his work with Elle magazine has helped transform the country's growing fashion industry and has helped launch the careers of a new, cutting-edge breed of Thai designers. Kullawit has always been fascinated by fashion and history. As a child he was captivated by clothing, whether simply admiring the latest outfits or dreaming of making daring new designs. As he grew older, Kullawit enjoyed combining both passions, looking back in history to see how the events of the time influenced fashion, or vice versa. After graduating from a prestigious fashion college in the US, Kullawit returned to Thailand, where he was hired in 1997 as Elle's Fashion Editor and worked closely with Jane Hsiang, the Editorial Director of Elle Asia Pacific Region. A few years later he was promoted to Fashion Director, and for the last three years he has served as Elle's Editor-in-Chief. During his time at Elle, Kullawit has been riding at the crest of Bangkok's fashion wave. Noting that the city lacked any major fashion events, Kullawit launched Elle Bangkok Fashion Week, which quickly became a must-see event for Asia's fashion insiders and is still the most important date on Thailand's fashion calendar. With Kullawit's keen eye for scouting new talent, Elle Bangkok Fashion Week has become a springboard to success for a bevy of young Thai designers and is sure to remain so for some time to come.
Senior Fashion Writer for The Sunday Times Style, founder of Fashion Fringe-
Colin McDowell is recognized as one of the most authoritative fashion commentators in the world. The author of sixteen books, he is Senior Fashion Writer for The Sunday Times Style section and founder of Fashion Fringe. Colin McDowell is an accomplished presenter, giving regular lectures at fashion colleges and costume symposiums in Britain and abroad. He was visiting lecturer at the Melbourne Fashion Festival in 1998 and 2001. He speaks regularly for the Costume Society of Great Britain and the Royal Society of Arts. He is visiting professor of the London Institute, which encompasses all of the central London art schools including The London College of Fashion and Central St Martins School of Art and also at the Royal College of Art in London.
Roberto Cavalli, Head of the Studio-
Born in Valencia, Spain, she leaves for London in 1989 to study at Central Saint Martins (MA Fashion and Textiles). She started her professional career in New York in 1992, soon she moved back to London to work for Liberty and Timney Fowler. In 1995 she joined Moschino and designed for the "cheap & chic" line. In 2000 Elisa moved to Paris at John Galliano as the head of the studio. In the same year, she started a collaboration with Christian Dior. She is also an external teacher at Central St Martins. Since May 2007 she is now the head of the studio at Roberto Cavalli.
MARIA LUISA POUMAILLOU
Founder and Buyer for Maria Luisa Boutiques-
Maria Luisa's adventure began in 1988 with the opening of her first boutique in Paris in a very unconventional street - 2, rue cambon - as unconventional were at that time the fashion designers' collections that she had chosen to launch: John Galliano, Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela to name just a few! These almost unknown fashion designers were to become fashion icons quite immediately. In the years to follow Maria Luisa's fame as a visionary woman spotting the most-famous-to-become designers has never stopped growing. Maria Luisa now owns and directs 4 boutiques where some of the most innovative and outstanding fashion designers - from Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Rochas to Charles Anastase or Nicolas Andreas Taralis. At 38, rue du Mont Thabor, the "mixte" shop, focused on younger and emerging talents It will welcome the collection of the winner of the Maria Luisa Award in the form of a dedicated shop-window.
AITOR THROUP >>
ITS#FIVE Winner, Fashion Designer-
Aitor Throup was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1980. He moved to England when he was twelve. In 2001 he took a BA in Fashion at Manchester Metropolitan University graduating with first class honours. In 2006, he completed an MA Postgraduate Degree in menswear fashion at Royal College of Art. Aitor is fascinated with anatomy. His main interest is drawing where he explores the human body in continuous motion, constantly attempting to capture a linear aesthetic balance. Aitor's hand drawn characters become the primary tool in the exploration of his "justified design "philosophy, which highlights the necessity of a reason or function behind all design features. The starting point does not involve the final garment. Aitor's design process utilises innovative methods of design and construction, in particular a three stage construction process. This three-stage process of Drawing, Sculpture and Garment was recently showcased at MAN during London Fashion Week (February 2007), where he showed an exclusive preview of his new seasonal tailoring concept. He won two awards in ITS#FIVE: Collection of the Year and i-D Styling Award mainly thanks to his personal approach to design: Story Telling (rather than the three-stage sculpture), creating garments with transformable features, all of which are directly informed and justified by the narrative/story of the collection. As part of the main award, he is back at ITS as a member of the jury.
The enfant terrible of contemporary perfumery-
Laudamiel spent his childhood in wild parts of France and New Caledonia. A background duality between natural wilderness and chemistry has shaped his vision of bringing Perfumery to a higher awareness level, as a true Art form. Laudamiel graduated Valedictorian with a Master's Degree in Chemistry from France, was teaching assistant at Harvard University and teaching fellow at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. He received his Perfumer-Creator Degree from Procter & Gamble in 1997, and was later promoted to Senior Perfumer. Christophe Laudamiel has been a Fine Fragrance Perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. since year 2000. He has created for Abercrombie & Fitch, Frederic Fekkai, Cath Kidstone, The Estee Lauder Companies, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Harvey Nichols, Slatkin & Co. He is co-author of Polo Blue for Men, Ralph Lauren 2002, allegedly the largest launch and success of a men's fragrance in the history of perfumery. This fragrance received in New York City the 2003 FIFI Award for Fragrance Star of the Year as well as the Perfumer's Choice Award. Among his latest achievements working with Christophe Hornetz, together known as "Les Christophes", they managed to capture a story in a bottle, a coffret of fifteen chapter fragrances that accompany the film of Patrick Sueskind's horrific olfactive tale, Perfume.
ITS#SIX ACCESSORIES JURY BIOGRAPHY
HEATHER BLAKE >>
Shoe designer and winner of Accessories Collection of the Year-
Has been making clothes and accessories for as long as she can remember. Luckily her parents were very supportive and they usually let her go out in her odd creations. While doing an art foundation course she became fascinated by the process of printmaking and went on to do a degree in fine art. After 12 years in art education and community arts in Spain, London and Hong Kong, she went to visit an old student who was studying footwear design at Cordwainers college in London. She knew as soon as she entered the building that she wanted to make shoes. She returned to London from Hong Kong and spent a year at Cordwainers learning how to make shoes, followed by a year at a Bespoke shoemakers in London. She then went on to do an MA in footwear design at the Royal College of Art finishing in Summer 2006. Since then she has taught footwear design at Cordwainers (now part of London College of Fashion). She is currently living in Italy, working on a design placement for Salvatore Ferragamo, as well as working on her next collection for ITS#SIX.
Kei Kagami initially studied architecture and worked as studio assistant to the pre-eminent figurehead of Twentieth Century Japanese building design, Kenzo Tange. During this period Kagami realised his true vocation and promptly enrolled at Tokyo's Bunka College to study tailoring. Building a bridge between the two disciplines, the move into fashion was a sort of logical progression. In 1989 Arriving on the doorstep of John Galliano's studio in London his talent and determination were instantly recognised and Galliano put him to work without hesitation, and he remained there as Galliano's studio assistant for three seasons working very closely with his mentor. In 1990 with the help of Sisheido, Kagami enrolled at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. In 2001, his first catwalk show was held off-schedule at The Bulgarian Embassy in London. He has shown in London for several seasons and now presents his catwalk show in Milan. Kagami's first shoe-exhibition was held at a gallery in Milan in 2003. Transcending fashion, Kagami's intricate, structural designs have been displayed in museums and galleries across the world including the Museum of Modern Art (Belgrade), Au Musée du Textile et des Costumes de Wesserling (France), Design 21 exhibition ( New York), triennale (Milano ), Rooms (Tokyo) 'The Fashion of Architecture ' (London and New York), 'Body Extensions' (Switzerland).
Product development responsible-
Alberto Pierotti in the last twenty years has been working in the shoe development area. Since the beginning he started being interested in the creation of shoe models. Since 1994 he has been working for Salvatore Ferragamo collaborating with the studio and being responsible of an own line of products specialized in female shoes. From then till nowadays his collaboration has been always more specialized on the product innovation both in technical and esthetical level.
ITS#SIX PHOTO JURY BIOGRAPHY
GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN
Gianni Berengo Gardin is considered one of the most important Italian photographers of his time. He started his career over 50 years ago, in 1954. He has collaborated with different Italian and International magazines (Domus, Epoca, L'Espresso, Time, Stern, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Du, Le Figaro etc.), and some of his shoots have been used for important advertising campaigns for brands such as Procter&Gamble and Olivetti. His work has been displayed in hundreds of important museums and galleries: Museum of Modern Art -New York, the George Eastman House-Rochester, International Rencontres d'Arles-Arles (where he has been awarded the "Oskar Barnack - Camera Group Award"), Mois de la Photo di Parigi, FNAC galleries, just to name a few. He has published over 150 photography books, the last one is called Italians (Federico Motta Editore, 1999). Gianni Berengo Gardin currently lives in Milano and he has been part of the Contrasto agency since 1990.
Advertising manager of MAGNUM PHOTOS,France-
Born in Mexico in 1972. Worked in the film industry as script supervisor, independent producer for short films and music videos. Collaborates as photo director with literary magazines. Moves to Paris in 1999 to work in various photographers agencies and joins Magnum photos in 2006 as Advertising Manager.
Director of Photo Dept. Fabrica-
Enrico Bossan was born in Dolo (Venice) in1956 and since 1975 he had been dedicated himself to photography. Since 1985, he has published his photography reports in national and international magazines, and since 1992 he has been represented by Contrasto's Agency. In 1987 he won Kodak's award for professional photography. His shoots have been showed at Houston PhotoFest, at the International Photography Biannual of Turin, in Amsterdam, Arles, Milan, Rome, Salonika, Tokyo and Venice. His reportages became books: "Pechino-Parigi" (1989), a journey around Asia and Europe following the adventurous track of Italy; and "Exit" (1992), a "two vision" story about the America of nowadays created in collaboration with the photographer Roberto Koch. His travels don't follow only geographical routes. Bossan worked also for a sanity project. He proposed a deep view on the life of patients in hospitals (Romeo Martinez Award, 1996). His interest in life and work in charitable structures lead him to develop a series of photograph and publishing projects. In 2000, he published "Esodo", views from a house that accommodate people with HIV and "Un privilegio difficile", a black-and-white reportage about socio-sanitary cooperation in the South Saharan Africa, for Cuamm Doctors for Africa. In 2002 he published "Il cerchio della Salute" in wich he examine the health care of the city in which he lives, Padua. In 2003, thanks to the "èAfica" reportage he gave a positive image of everyday life in Africa, with its people, objects, colors and smells. He directed four short films about patients and health operators. In 2004 he started giving lectures for the Master in Journalism at Padua University. He is currently busy with a social cultural project of the Health Care Corporation of Rovigo, and since June 2005, has been Fabrica's Photography Department director.
President of G.R.I.N.-
Mariateresa Cerretelli lives and works in Milan. After her degree she entered in publishing world and dealt with iconography research for Rizzoli (an Italian publishing house). She is a professional journalist and photo editor for Class, she is working on different publishing projects, brochures and books and she is a curator of art expositions. Since May 2004 she has been the President of Grin, a group of iconographical editors and researchers.
Photographic critic and Director of Contrasto, MI-
Denis Curti in the last fifteen years has been involved in many of the most important Italian institutions and projects regarding photography. He has been for ten years, from 1992 to 2002, director of "Fondazione Italiana Per la Fotografia" in Turin and took care from 1995 to 2001 of the "Biennale Internazionale di Fotografia". In 2000 he became a member of the international comittee of critics which organized the first edition of "BIG, International Biennale of young artists" in Turin. He collaborated as photography critic for Milan newspaper Corriere della Sera and weekly magazine VIVIMILANO from 1990 to 2004. In 2002 and 2003 he has been curator of photography auctions for Sotheby's, Milan. From 2001 to 2003 he provided artistic counselling for "Contrasto" exhibitions and from 2003 he is director of the Milan "Contrasto" centre and member of "Forma-centro Internazionale di fotografia "boards of directors.
Editor of Visionaire-
Cecilia Dean was raised in California. She moved to New York where she began modeling at the end of high school when she met Stephen Gan as photographer and James Kaliardos as make-up artist. Dean modeled in Paris, Milan, London, and Tokyo and has worked with photographers Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, David Sims, Steven Klein, Irving Penn, and Peter Lindbergh.In 1991, Dean received her Bachelor of Arts degree in English and French literature from Barnard College, Columbia University, NYC. In April 1991, Visionaire Publishing was launched with collaborators Stephen Gan and James Kaliardos. In September 1999, V Magazine was launched along with the Visionaire Gallery. In September 2003, VMAN magazine was launched. In 2004 Dream Project, a design firm, was established to art direct advertising campaigns. Dean is also a visiting professor at Parsons School of Design where she teaches a senior seminar on publication design.
CARL DE KEYZER
Photographer MAGNUM PHOTOS-
One of a generation of reporters to emerge in the late 1980s, Carl de Keyzer likes to tackle large-scale projects and general themes. A basic premise in much of his work is that, in overpopulated communities everywhere, disaster has already struck and infrastructures are on the verge of collapse. De Keyzer started his career as a freelance photographer in 1982 while supporting himself as an instructor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Ghent (1982-89). At the same time, his interest in the work of other photographers led him to co-found and co-direct the XYZ-Photography Gallery. A Magnum nominee in 1990, he became a full member in 1994. De Keyzer's style is not dependent on isolated pictures, but rather relies on accumulation and interdependence with text, often taken from his own travel diaries. His gift lies in exploring societies and situations that are shaped by public life and of wide interest to people: in a series of large-scale tableaux, he has covered India, the collapse of the USSR, and (more recently) power and politics in the contemporary world.
Penny Martin, Editor in Chief of SHOWstudio, is a curator and writer on fashion and photography who has lectured internationally. Since studying at Glasgow and Manchester Universities and The Royal College of Art, she has worked as a Curator at The National Museum of Photography, Film & Television and The Women's Library and as a Researcher and Lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University. Martin curated the Vogue Laid Out exhibition at The V&A in 2000 and is an interviewer for The National Sound Archive. She has also contributed to Blueprint, Beaux Arts, Numèro, Frieze, i-D, UK Vogue, Japanese Vogue magazines and The Independent and La Repubblica newspapers.
REMIGIUSZ PYRDOL >>
Winner of ITS#PHOTO for MINI at ITS#FIVE-
Originally from Poland, Remigiusz Pyrdol moved to NY in 1990 at the age of 13. In 2006 graduated from the School of Visual Arts. In 2005 Remigiusz was selected to be part of the Mentor Program. Kathy Ryan, editor at the New York Times Magazine, mentored Remi during the yearlong program that culminated in Mentors, an exhibition at the Visual Arts Gallery in New York City, 2006. Remigiusz uses photography to explore the varied issues that transpire with ones assimilation into a new culture. This has lead to the realization that one can never truly fit back into the culture of which they came while fully immersing themselves into a new one. It is with the use of this theme that Remigiusz won the Mini International and Lebook award at ITS FIVE.
Chief Editor MINIInternational magazine-
Anne Urbauer was born near Munich, Bavaria, where she studied journalism, politics and history. She has worked as Lifestyle Editor for German 80s Zeitgeist Zentralorgan "Tempo", as head of the modern living department at "Stern" Magazine and "Die Woche", a weekly newspaper as well as a contributing editor for "Wallpaper" magazine (issues 1 to 50). Freelancing since 1999, she has founded "H.O.M.E.", a magazine for design and architecture based in Berlin, "Spruce", a fashion oriented line extension for "Wallpaper" magazine, "STIL", the style section of the Sunday edition of Neue Züricher Zeitung (NZZ) in Zurich, Switzerland and MINIInternational, the culture friendly corporate magazine sponsored by MINI. In 2004, she edited "Perspectives", a book on the visions of 24 designers and architects, published by Gerd Bulthaup. Currently she is contributing editor to NZZ am Sonntag, executive editor of Amica Germany and editorial director of MINIInternational. She now lives in Munich.